How to Make a Bilum Bag
Bilum photo via Marielisha Ilai.
In Papua New Guinea, ‘bilum’ traditionally refers to a type of bag which is a symbol of a woman's social standing. Married women balance the bag's strap on their forehead, carry shopping goods and children in their stretchy bilum bag.
Bilum bags are hand made using a knotless netting technique, using various looping methods. It is traditionally made from local plant materials, such as reeds, fibre from tree bark, sisal, and vine. It can also be made using alternatives like string and yarn, opening up the possibilities in colors that can be incorporated into bilum items. Like any looped fabric, bilum items can vary by patterns, colors, materials used, and size.
· DON'T MISS: For more on bilum, and for videos on how locally sourced natural materials are prepped for bilum-making, check out our posts Bilum and Bilum Videos.
A Fabric's Purpose Expands
In the past few years, the women of PNG have revolutionized the way people think about bilum. A shift happened in the use of the looping technique when Florence Jaukae Kamel, a Papua New Guinea artist and designer, challenged the norm and started to think in terms of using bilum as a fabric rather than as a way to make bags.
Florence started to make dresses and hats. As a result, her designs significantly changed how people thought about bilum, and opened up a wider appreciation for the material and the women who make it.
Florence founded a collective of Goroka bilum-weaving PNG women (the Goroka Bilum Weavers Cooperative), which generates income for bilum crafters. In 2018, Florence was named Chairperson of the Bilum Export and Promotion Association (BEPA). Started in 2015, BEPA seeks to find local and international markets for their PNG-made bilum products.
Free Instructional Downloads
If you’d like to learn how to make bilum fabric, click through to download two instructional .pdfs below. The Journal of the Polynesian Society has instructions for several versions of looping techniques. And, the Papua New Guinea Government has created step-by-step instructions for how to make a bilum bag.
Here are the .pdf links:
Australian Netting and Basketry Techniques and
Short Course for Papua New Guinea Non-Formal Sector: Local Craft Bilum Weaving
If you like the bold geometric look of Bilum, you might also like Tunisian and Tapestry crochet. Below are some books to help you explore this technique, as well as some other popular crochet books. Click on a book cover or button to learn more and to purchase.
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· DON'T MISS: For more crafting ideas, tutorials, and resources, explore Crafting Resources.
~ CROCHET BOOKS FOR YOUR LIBRARY ~
This book lays out instructions for tapestry crochet in simple and easy-to-understand instructions - great for a beginner. It contains several patterns for scarves, cowls, shawls, blankets, hats, tote bags, and socks. After you learn the general technique laid out in this book, you'll be able to use any of the designs that are diagrammed to make any of the projects.
The author of this book has been running workshops on how to make mochila bags since 2014. Her comprehensive book on the technique is a must-have for this technique - including patterns, making shoulder straps, ply-split braiding, and Kumihimo.
Japanese Wonder Crochet is the first major Japanese crochet book to be translated into English. It introduces crafters outside Japan to the wonderful crochet techniques and charts that are so popular within the country. The book includes 25 projects, and
shows a creative approach to classic crochet stitches such as Aran, herringbone, Bavarian, waffle, crocodile, reversible crochet, and many more.
Corner-to-Corner is a fun and unique way of crocheting! By following a pixel graph instead of a written pattern, you can incorporate virtually any character or image you want into a crochet blanket. This great book includes how-to instructions and step-by-step photos. Also included are instructions for 5 cute throws. Adorable patterns and good instructions.
Explore Amigurumi, the Japanese art of crochet design, with 30 unique and darling patterns. These super cute designs are the reason this book is a best-seller. Lauren Espy inspires crocheters with her easy-to-follow patterns, pictures, and helpful instructions.
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